This was my childhood home. Yes, we lived in a mansion. British colonial lifestyle, liveried servants, big game hunting, fancy formal dinners -the works. Strange to think of it because these palatial residences were built in the middle of nowhere. Assam. One of the most rain-locked, deeply forested and inaccessible regions of North-east India. Early colonial planters braved the malaria-ridden jungles, dangerous wild game and head-hunting tribes to set up the tea industry in Assam and grow the finest tea on earth. Check the map here if you want to know more about Assam and Assam tea.
While researching “Teatime for the Firefly” I started collecting information about tea garden bungalows in Assam. I discovered each one had its unique architecture, charm and even RESIDENT GHOST!Tea garden bungalows come in a baffling array of styles. Here is an except from my research notes:
“In the early days of tea, Managers had plenty of say in the design of their personal residences. It was one of the ego-perks allowed by the Company to entice capable men to join tea. As a result, tea garden bungalows were a startling medley of styles, reminiscent of the dreams and aspirations of their first owners.
Some managers tried to replicate the English-style manor houses of their home country, but the result was a confused mish mash of western architecture using Indian materials, incongruous but fanciful nonetheless.
I am attaching photos to showcase these wonderful bungalows from Assam tea gardens– most of them have mysterious and quirky names. These photos have been shared with me from tea planters from all over the world. (Planters! I need captions for Bungalows marked “unknown”. If a you have any information of these featured here please send me a message. )
Many thanks to the members of the KOI-HAI.COM community for help your loving support.
___________________________
If you are an Assam Tea planter and would like to share a photo of a bungalow, please send me a message HERE I will give you my direct email where you can upload the photo. Don’t forget to include the name of the tea garden and the year the photo was taken. Many thanks I have started a separate photo gallery to showcase tea garden bungalows and will be adding to to this from time to time. Please click PHOTO GALLERY OF ASSAM TEA GARDEN BUNGALOWS here to see what I have so far.
_________________________________________________________________
Teatime for the Firefly is my debut novel. It is a love story set in a remote tea plantation in Assam, India. You can read the SYNOPSIS and the FIRST CHAPTER by clicking on the red links. I am represented by April Eberhardt Literary.
Writer, tea lover, wannabe chef. Author of "Teatime for the Firefly" and "Flame Tree Road" (Harper Collins/Mira Books). Represented by April Eberhardt Literary.
View all posts by Shona Patel
Thank you, I agree, I keep being very surprised by this. For me, there is nothing to beat a flavourful cup of Indian tea, I wouldn’t want to contemplate a life with out it.
Shall send you pics of Ashok’s childhood bungalows at DoomDooma, Panitola & Hokanpukri asap! Unfortunately I never got to live in one of the older bungalows 😦 I went to Tiphook (Jorehaut) as a bride but it was a spiffy and modern bungalow except for the kitchen which still had the coal fire stoves! My Dejoo (North Lakhimpur) bungalow was brand new, though it had a visiting ghostie who passed through frequently!
My Darjeeling bungalow at Margaret’s Hope however, was old and had the lady spook present!
Many thanks Mamlu, looking forward to them. You have lived in several bungalows with spooks! I remember your story about the guy who walked through walls.You attract ghosts I think!
It was my pleasure of having taking over as Manager, Margaret’s Hope in 1985 then under Tiru Tea Ltd (Goodricke Group Ltd).Stayed there till 1990 along with the resident spook, presumably a lady, since whenever she made a ghostly appearance, she captivated us with the divine fragrance of the Gardenia flower( or so we thought !). Margaret’s Hope is one of the most extraordinary Tea Gardens; what a lovely Manager’s bungalow it was, not to talk of the marvellous teas.
Thank you for sharing. The Gardenia Lady sounds creepy and awesome. Tea planters have learned to cohabit peacefully with spooks. After all the spooks were there first and who dares to tell them to get lost? Cheers!
Tea tales are wonedrful. Being an army daughter I spent a lot of time in Cachar, Silchar in Assam. We were at Kumbhigram and had friends in the tea gardens. There were cricket matches between army wives and the planting ladies. It was all a very stylish affair. There was a bungalow with a grand piano, one had a river flowing through its acres. It was all very charming.
I now have a small tearoom in Kochi, called Tpot, just trying to keep in touch with the warm world of tea, a comfort zone.
Hi Priya,
There has always been a close friendship between tea and army folks, maybe because both communities lived in such isolated areas. Your Tpot tearoom in Kochi sounds wonderful!
My husband used to be a tea planter too!! In Conoor, Nilgiris! We have moved to Chennai since but your pictures brought back many fond memories of our wonderful life there and those amazing colonial bungalows!! Not to mention the army of people to wait on you hand and foot! Will have to get hold of your book 🙂
I am pleased to know about your book see this. A few years ago I wrote a book for UPASI (The United Planters Association of South India) . I named it Forest Gold – The story of South Indian Tea.
It was released by the Union Commerce minister and has proved to be a great success. IN the book we covered quite a few of the great tea estate bungalows in South India.
Are any of the bungalows you have covered in Arunachal Pradesh?
Congratulations on your book. There is much about Indian Tea that cannot be compiled in a single source. I am glad you have documented the South. My work is focussed primarily on Assam. Best of luck to you.
I don’t believe there are any “real” tea estates in Arunachal Pradesh, but I could be wrong. I have heard of one tea garden has been created purely as a tourist destination by two businessmen – complete with a helipad and designed to accommodate 600 guests!!
I know of one tea estate in Arunachal Pradesh that is named Donyi-polo – I had been sent photos of this garden by Alan Wood and Ali Zaman, but I have temporarily misplaced them – as soon as I can locate them I will forward to you. I understand that to access this garden one has to travel to Pasighat, which as you may know is beyond Saikhowa / Sadiya – near to the confluence of the Lohit and the Dibang – which then becomes the Brahmaputra. I should think that the other route to it is via North Lakhimpur. If you check on the web you will see this estate mentioned with a short film on tea manufacture there.
Interesting, this is the first tea garden I have heard of In AP. Isn’t AP a sensitive border area, requiring special permits and what not? Maybe that’s why you have to access it through Pasighat. Alan, you probably know more about all this than I do. Many thanks!
Some of these bungalows which are no longer used as a residence are now part of the tourist circuit. One which I know of and have seen, is the one in Sangsoa Tea Estate in Upper Assam.
I have heard the Tea tourism is big in India, but I know little about it. Would love to know more. I know Heman Barauh is involved in this. We know him well. He is very old I believe.
Hello
Your style of writting is excellent.
Presently, we are making a site named http://www.indianteahelp.com
We will be very happy to get tea anecdotes from you.
Hi Anjali,
The book is scheduled to be published sometime late 2013. I will know exact release date soon. Will keep you updated. Thanks for visiting my blog.
S
Shona do you now live in India or abroad, I am just curious? If you live in India, where exactly are you? You know, I write for the trade journals of the Indian tea industry. Would love to meet with you and have a nice chat
over a cuppa if you are anywhere in the northeast.
it was a way of life now vanishing.your efforts on this aspect of colonial india will be a blessing for the future generations.my interest is mainly due to my father who worked in carritts at cochin.sadly this company is now no more.thank you for your efforts on this subject.
Thank you Roy. Yes, there are very few of us who remember this life. Seems so many eons ago. Almost has a fairy tale quality now, don’t you think? If I can only distill the essence of those times, I would consider my job done.
dear roy, i m a broker in bangladesh. i was with carrits cochin in 1978 for about 6 months and than moved to calcutta before returning to bd. may i know who your father was and if he was with carrits in 1978. sajjad hayat
Hi shona !
i come from a tea tasting trading family in kolkata and come across all the names of tea gardens in the auction catalogs only. I’m extremely fascinated by Tea gardens , their heritage and history and love researching on them. Your site and its contents were a great pleasure to read . almost transported me to a beautiful garden in assam. it would be great to see some more pictures also
thank you
nivedita
Many thanks Nivedita, I can imagine seeing the names of tea gardens in catalogs and the actual photos is quite a difference! I recently spent a few days with tea tasters in Kolkata. What a fascinating business tea tasting is! I am working on a blogpost on that subject and will have it up soon.Thanks for visiting my blog. Cheers!
Dear Shona, I came to ur blog while surfing for a seminar paper on tea tourism in Assam…I have to admit..though I live in upper Assam and see tea gardens all around, ur perspective and ur spirit has made me realise I have never adequately watched and admired beauty that is lying in Assam tea gardens. I have read first few lines of ur novel..found them very appealing..will read it in leisure.
Do u have photos of Assam tea tribe tattoo ? pls share if u have. Regards.
Hi Pankaj,
Thanks for your kind comments. By the tattooes, do you mean the Adivasi tribal tattooes of the tea pluckers? It is a fascinating subject and I did the most interesting research. Girls get their first tattooes as early as 7. Tattooes serve to keep a particular tribe together. The women of the Bhil tribe have small “v” shaped tattooes on the side of their eyes – “chiraya” (bird) tattooes they are called. All the symbols, lines etc mean something or the other. You may be interested to know the wife of the village sorcerer does the job by injected roasted/powdered black sesame (til) paste under the skin. For antiseptic they use diluted cow dung (!!) or soap nut water. Here is some info I got off the web. Fascinating, all this! http://brpgenerator.com/blog/indian-adivasi
Your thirst for finding details of the Adivasis & other tribals is indeed commendable. To know more about the tribals of India & also Adivasis, Dr.Verrier Elwin is a known & acknowledged anthropologist & Indologist who has done a tremendous amount of research on the subject. I am sure that his works would yield a lot of information. Dr.Elwin was based at Shillong as far as I know. I am sure many other tea planters of Assam & North Bengal privy to this blog or otherwise, would be able to contribute their considerable knowledge to great benefit. All the best !
Having spent 15 yrs planting with Messrs Jorehaut Tea Company (1993-2008), I had an opportunity to live and work in some of the oldest Tea Estates in the Jorhat/Golaghat/Naharkatia area of Assam and it is indeed heartening to see the keen interest evinced in this fascinmating industry by people from varied walks of life. At present I am in Munnar, Kerala with another 200 yr old tea company and still enjoying living in some of the oldest bungalows in south Indian tea. Will post pics with due permission … keep up the good work Shona.
Hi Debojit,
I was recently in Munnar. It’s certainly one of the prettiest part of the country and the tea estates there are right out of a picture book. You are lucky to be enjoying the tea life still. Yes there has been a lot of interest in tea. I get all kinds of questions on my blog. Just as well I have stalwart tea planters like yourself to turn too for answers. I have connected with many retired tea planters (Scottish/British living abroad now) who have shared with me their photographs and stories. It has been a very rewarding experience in all. I look forward to your photographs.
Best wishes, Shona.
So glad I happened to drop by your space, its lovely. Tea in any case is so close to the hearts of any Assamese that talk of tea and you get the aroma. And yes, love my chai without masala.
I too had the privilege/experience of living in a few of the Colonial Bungalows of Assam, although not in any tea garden. Those were some of the most wonderful time of my life.
Will read more of your posts later.
Hi Ruprekha, Yes I know, many old Assam bungalows are in the colonial style, the Dak bungalows, DC bungalows for one. A stay in these bungalows takes one to back to a more gracious era. I am particularly interested in the haunted bungalows with the bogasahib ghosts! Cheers!
Eeek … the bogasahib ghost! Yes, heard quite a few of those stories during my stay in the DC bungalow, Jorhat and the Commissioner’s bungalows of Jorhat and Tezpur,
Do drop by my blog on these links
I have been recently offered a post of assistant manager in a reputed tea estate in Darjeeling.Could u be so kind as to brief me about the life style and nature of work of a planter??:-)
Congratulations on your new job! Much has changed since my day. I am sure you will find many contemporary tea planters who can share with you their experiences. Good luck!
Thanks fealt great that u took cognizance of my query ..good luck for ur debut novel…I hv penchant for reading, already looking forward to read ur book:-)…
I am so glad you got to visit Hunwal, one of my favorite gardens. Thanks for stopping by my blog. I took a peek at yours during this small (CTC) tea break! Cheers!
Thank You for Posting this article , Brought back beautiful distant memories. Especially for the picture of Mancotta Tea Estate Chang Bungalow where I spent few years of my early childhood between 1977-1980. My father was the estate manager working for the Jalans then. It was a magnificent residence with many rooms, wooden floors and high ceiling’s and almost unlimited space for the flower and kitchen garden.
Beautiful buildings, very grand. Assam is one of my favourite teas, you must have had an amazing childhood.
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Thank you Lorna. As an Assam tea lover you are close to my heart. Most people drink infusions and flavored teas now days.
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Thank you, I agree, I keep being very surprised by this. For me, there is nothing to beat a flavourful cup of Indian tea, I wouldn’t want to contemplate a life with out it.
LikeLike
Following your blog now Lorna. That photo of the chocolate cake did it for me!! Will read your posts at leisure! 🙂
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Thank you very much!
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Shall send you pics of Ashok’s childhood bungalows at DoomDooma, Panitola & Hokanpukri asap! Unfortunately I never got to live in one of the older bungalows 😦 I went to Tiphook (Jorehaut) as a bride but it was a spiffy and modern bungalow except for the kitchen which still had the coal fire stoves! My Dejoo (North Lakhimpur) bungalow was brand new, though it had a visiting ghostie who passed through frequently!
My Darjeeling bungalow at Margaret’s Hope however, was old and had the lady spook present!
LikeLike
Many thanks Mamlu, looking forward to them. You have lived in several bungalows with spooks! I remember your story about the guy who walked through walls.You attract ghosts I think!
LikeLike
It was my pleasure of having taking over as Manager, Margaret’s Hope in 1985 then under Tiru Tea Ltd (Goodricke Group Ltd).Stayed there till 1990 along with the resident spook, presumably a lady, since whenever she made a ghostly appearance, she captivated us with the divine fragrance of the Gardenia flower( or so we thought !). Margaret’s Hope is one of the most extraordinary Tea Gardens; what a lovely Manager’s bungalow it was, not to talk of the marvellous teas.
LikeLike
Thank you for sharing. The Gardenia Lady sounds creepy and awesome. Tea planters have learned to cohabit peacefully with spooks. After all the spooks were there first and who dares to tell them to get lost? Cheers!
LikeLike
Oh wow Shona this is exactly how I imagined it from your writing! How wonderful its absolutely gorgeous!
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Many thanks. I tried to capture the feel in the book. Photographs really help I tell you. One forgets details.
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Tea tales are wonedrful. Being an army daughter I spent a lot of time in Cachar, Silchar in Assam. We were at Kumbhigram and had friends in the tea gardens. There were cricket matches between army wives and the planting ladies. It was all a very stylish affair. There was a bungalow with a grand piano, one had a river flowing through its acres. It was all very charming.
I now have a small tearoom in Kochi, called Tpot, just trying to keep in touch with the warm world of tea, a comfort zone.
LikeLike
Hi Priya,
There has always been a close friendship between tea and army folks, maybe because both communities lived in such isolated areas. Your Tpot tearoom in Kochi sounds wonderful!
LikeLike
My husband used to be a tea planter too!! In Conoor, Nilgiris! We have moved to Chennai since but your pictures brought back many fond memories of our wonderful life there and those amazing colonial bungalows!! Not to mention the army of people to wait on you hand and foot! Will have to get hold of your book 🙂
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It’s funny how the tea world is so small and we are all closely connected.
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🙂
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Sounds like you had a charmed early life, Shona. Beautiful photos to get my imagination dreaming of India!
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Cynthia, it was the most idyllic and wonderful childhood you can dream of. I was very blessed.
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I am pleased to know about your book see this. A few years ago I wrote a book for UPASI (The United Planters Association of South India) . I named it Forest Gold – The story of South Indian Tea.
It was released by the Union Commerce minister and has proved to be a great success. IN the book we covered quite a few of the great tea estate bungalows in South India.
Are any of the bungalows you have covered in Arunachal Pradesh?
LikeLike
Congratulations on your book. There is much about Indian Tea that cannot be compiled in a single source. I am glad you have documented the South. My work is focussed primarily on Assam. Best of luck to you.
LikeLike
Thank you.
Could you let me know whether there are any tea bungalows in Arunachal Pradesh.
LikeLike
I don’t believe there are any “real” tea estates in Arunachal Pradesh, but I could be wrong. I have heard of one tea garden has been created purely as a tourist destination by two businessmen – complete with a helipad and designed to accommodate 600 guests!!
LikeLike
Shona
I know of one tea estate in Arunachal Pradesh that is named Donyi-polo – I had been sent photos of this garden by Alan Wood and Ali Zaman, but I have temporarily misplaced them – as soon as I can locate them I will forward to you. I understand that to access this garden one has to travel to Pasighat, which as you may know is beyond Saikhowa / Sadiya – near to the confluence of the Lohit and the Dibang – which then becomes the Brahmaputra. I should think that the other route to it is via North Lakhimpur. If you check on the web you will see this estate mentioned with a short film on tea manufacture there.
Very best regards
Alan
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Interesting, this is the first tea garden I have heard of In AP. Isn’t AP a sensitive border area, requiring special permits and what not? Maybe that’s why you have to access it through Pasighat. Alan, you probably know more about all this than I do. Many thanks!
LikeLike
Some of these bungalows which are no longer used as a residence are now part of the tourist circuit. One which I know of and have seen, is the one in Sangsoa Tea Estate in Upper Assam.
LikeLike
I have heard the Tea tourism is big in India, but I know little about it. Would love to know more. I know Heman Barauh is involved in this. We know him well. He is very old I believe.
LikeLike
Hello
Your style of writting is excellent.
Presently, we are making a site named http://www.indianteahelp.com
We will be very happy to get tea anecdotes from you.
Regards
Neelanjan Dhar
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Many thanks Neelanjan. Let me know how I can help.
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Shona, is your novel available in the bookshops now? I would love to read it.
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Hi Anjali,
The book is scheduled to be published sometime late 2013. I will know exact release date soon. Will keep you updated. Thanks for visiting my blog.
S
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Shona do you now live in India or abroad, I am just curious? If you live in India, where exactly are you? You know, I write for the trade journals of the Indian tea industry. Would love to meet with you and have a nice chat
over a cuppa if you are anywhere in the northeast.
LikeLike
Hi Anjali, I live in Arizona USA. Where are you? Please let me more about what you do.
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it was a way of life now vanishing.your efforts on this aspect of colonial india will be a blessing for the future generations.my interest is mainly due to my father who worked in carritts at cochin.sadly this company is now no more.thank you for your efforts on this subject.
LikeLike
Thank you Roy. Yes, there are very few of us who remember this life. Seems so many eons ago. Almost has a fairy tale quality now, don’t you think? If I can only distill the essence of those times, I would consider my job done.
LikeLike
dear roy, i m a broker in bangladesh. i was with carrits cochin in 1978 for about 6 months and than moved to calcutta before returning to bd. may i know who your father was and if he was with carrits in 1978. sajjad hayat
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My father’s name was Paresh Nag and he was the Manager of Duklingia Tea Estate (Jardine Henderson). Cheers!
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Hi shona !
i come from a tea tasting trading family in kolkata and come across all the names of tea gardens in the auction catalogs only. I’m extremely fascinated by Tea gardens , their heritage and history and love researching on them. Your site and its contents were a great pleasure to read . almost transported me to a beautiful garden in assam. it would be great to see some more pictures also
thank you
nivedita
LikeLike
Many thanks Nivedita, I can imagine seeing the names of tea gardens in catalogs and the actual photos is quite a difference! I recently spent a few days with tea tasters in Kolkata. What a fascinating business tea tasting is! I am working on a blogpost on that subject and will have it up soon.Thanks for visiting my blog. Cheers!
LikeLike
Dear Shona, I came to ur blog while surfing for a seminar paper on tea tourism in Assam…I have to admit..though I live in upper Assam and see tea gardens all around, ur perspective and ur spirit has made me realise I have never adequately watched and admired beauty that is lying in Assam tea gardens. I have read first few lines of ur novel..found them very appealing..will read it in leisure.
Do u have photos of Assam tea tribe tattoo ? pls share if u have. Regards.
LikeLike
Hi Pankaj,
Thanks for your kind comments. By the tattooes, do you mean the Adivasi tribal tattooes of the tea pluckers? It is a fascinating subject and I did the most interesting research. Girls get their first tattooes as early as 7. Tattooes serve to keep a particular tribe together. The women of the Bhil tribe have small “v” shaped tattooes on the side of their eyes – “chiraya” (bird) tattooes they are called. All the symbols, lines etc mean something or the other. You may be interested to know the wife of the village sorcerer does the job by injected roasted/powdered black sesame (til) paste under the skin. For antiseptic they use diluted cow dung (!!) or soap nut water. Here is some info I got off the web. Fascinating, all this!
http://brpgenerator.com/blog/indian-adivasi
LikeLike
Hi Pankaj !
Your thirst for finding details of the Adivasis & other tribals is indeed commendable. To know more about the tribals of India & also Adivasis, Dr.Verrier Elwin is a known & acknowledged anthropologist & Indologist who has done a tremendous amount of research on the subject. I am sure that his works would yield a lot of information. Dr.Elwin was based at Shillong as far as I know. I am sure many other tea planters of Assam & North Bengal privy to this blog or otherwise, would be able to contribute their considerable knowledge to great benefit. All the best !
B.Narain
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Many thanks. I have filed this valuable information for my future reference.
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Having spent 15 yrs planting with Messrs Jorehaut Tea Company (1993-2008), I had an opportunity to live and work in some of the oldest Tea Estates in the Jorhat/Golaghat/Naharkatia area of Assam and it is indeed heartening to see the keen interest evinced in this fascinmating industry by people from varied walks of life. At present I am in Munnar, Kerala with another 200 yr old tea company and still enjoying living in some of the oldest bungalows in south Indian tea. Will post pics with due permission … keep up the good work Shona.
LikeLike
Hi Debojit,
I was recently in Munnar. It’s certainly one of the prettiest part of the country and the tea estates there are right out of a picture book. You are lucky to be enjoying the tea life still. Yes there has been a lot of interest in tea. I get all kinds of questions on my blog. Just as well I have stalwart tea planters like yourself to turn too for answers. I have connected with many retired tea planters (Scottish/British living abroad now) who have shared with me their photographs and stories. It has been a very rewarding experience in all. I look forward to your photographs.
Best wishes, Shona.
LikeLike
So glad I happened to drop by your space, its lovely. Tea in any case is so close to the hearts of any Assamese that talk of tea and you get the aroma. And yes, love my chai without masala.
I too had the privilege/experience of living in a few of the Colonial Bungalows of Assam, although not in any tea garden. Those were some of the most wonderful time of my life.
Will read more of your posts later.
LikeLike
Hi Ruprekha, Yes I know, many old Assam bungalows are in the colonial style, the Dak bungalows, DC bungalows for one. A stay in these bungalows takes one to back to a more gracious era. I am particularly interested in the haunted bungalows with the bogasahib ghosts! Cheers!
LikeLike
Eeek … the bogasahib ghost! Yes, heard quite a few of those stories during my stay in the DC bungalow, Jorhat and the Commissioner’s bungalows of Jorhat and Tezpur,
Do drop by my blog on these links
http://rupascloset.blogspot.in/2012/06/memories-dear-and-close.html
and
http://rupascloset.blogspot.in/2013/02/heritage-in-harmony-raj-bhavan.html
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I have been recently offered a post of assistant manager in a reputed tea estate in Darjeeling.Could u be so kind as to brief me about the life style and nature of work of a planter??:-)
LikeLike
Congratulations on your new job! Much has changed since my day. I am sure you will find many contemporary tea planters who can share with you their experiences. Good luck!
LikeLike
Thanks fealt great that u took cognizance of my query ..good luck for ur debut novel…I hv penchant for reading, already looking forward to read ur book:-)…
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Hi m Sapun jyoti Baruah From assam me too worked in Tea for a few years and had a wonderful experience
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Hello Sapun,
Thank you for stopping by my blog. Cheers!
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I am so glad you got to visit Hunwal, one of my favorite gardens. Thanks for stopping by my blog. I took a peek at yours during this small (CTC) tea break! Cheers!
LikeLike
Thank You for Posting this article , Brought back beautiful distant memories. Especially for the picture of Mancotta Tea Estate Chang Bungalow where I spent few years of my early childhood between 1977-1980. My father was the estate manager working for the Jalans then. It was a magnificent residence with many rooms, wooden floors and high ceiling’s and almost unlimited space for the flower and kitchen garden.
LikeLike
Thanks for sharing you memories and for visiting my blog.😊Shona
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Great Shona patel. nice blog for tea lovers to know more about tea and tea garden & bungalows.
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good photos of tea garden memories
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